Tromsø: Above the Arctic Circle

I landed in Tromsø at around 9 o’clock at night. Ula (the girl I was staying with) had given me pretty good instructions as to how to get to her place, so I decided not to follow them and got off at the wrong bus stop. This seems to be becomming a common theme of this trip. So, after wondering where in the world I was supposed to go, wandering around looking lost, I found my self in a psychiatric hospital – asking for directions. I was only 100m away!

I soon found my way up to the 5th floor of the Tromsø University student house where Ula lived. She was a Polish masters student of English Literature. I would spend two nights with her, and then I was to spend the following two nights in the room of her neighbour, Phil, who was a biology masters student, spending his time in a greenhouse germinating seeds taken from Svalbard. That night I also met a couple more students plus Phil’s friend Doris from Vienna. We all stayed up pretty late and Doris and I decided that the next day we would climb the local mountain which during the correct season is usually accessed by cable car.

The next morning I awoke and went out onto the deck. This was the view.

View from Ula's Deck

The weather was not so nice, but it wasn’t raining, so Doris and I set out for the mountain.
As we got close to the harbour, the mountain became visable. It dosen’t look so big, but I gaurantee you that it is definitely steep.

Climbable?

We crossed the massive bridge which links Tromsø to the mainland,

Bridge and Harbour

Passed the modern-style church,

Triangle Church

And headed up into the forest. The path was pretty crazy, it spent about and hour going along the bottom of the mountain and we figured that at this rate it was going to take forever to get to the top, zig-zagging across the mountain. After passing a good number of streams, we finally got to a more intesnse part which, more or less, went directly up.

Mountain Stream

It took about another hour of ascention to reach a point where we decided to go no further. It was freezing, windy and starting to rain. But the view was amazing.

View From Mountain

Me and the View

Soon it was starting to get dark so we began to make out decent. On the way down the sunset, though cloudy, was very amazing. Here is my favourite picture of it:

Mountain Sunset

That night Ula made a very nice Polish-style tomato soup and her and I and Doris and Phil all ate together and talked into the night. The following day Doris was going back to Oslo (where she studies German literature), so we made morning plans and then we all headed off to bed.

The next morning I awoke to this:

Morning View

The weather was amazing! Doris and I went walking again and had to stop and take pictures of the Tromsø Island lake on the way to town.

Central Lake

We got to town and decided that we wanted to walk to the very south end of the island. So we set off, passing some pretty cool street art,

Street Art

and Mack’s brewery, the world’s northern most beer brewery.

Macks Brewery

We never made it to the south tip of the island. We walked for so long but in the end it seemed as though Doris might miss her flight if we kept going. So we left the town goodbye and headed back to the student accommodation. Doris left for Oslo and I moved into Phil’s place. I then pitched the idea of tramping out into the darkness to Phil to try and see if the northern lights were going to show. He agreed, and after a nice dinner of vegetables and rice we bussed back into town, over the bridge, and walked up on of the cross-country skiing trails into the valley and beyond town’s visable light. We walked for hours and hours and the northen lights decided they were not going to show. I was not too happy about this, but cheered up after we did some interesting photography.

Phil and I

We had missed the last bus back but it was getting late and cold so we decided to make out way back home. When we reached the point where we could see the lights of Tromsø, we decided to take a few photos, the first looking like this:

Subtle Lights

We had to double take at the picture because there was definitely some green in there. The sky was almost blank but the photo showed up green. So we waited for a while. And sure enough, the northern lights appeared to us, albiet very subtly. I would have loved it to be amazing and bright and full of different colours, but I guess that it was a bit too early in the season. We watched the subtle green colours dance across the sky for around 20 minutes before they disappeared and then headed off home. We had been (mildly) victorious.

Subtle Lights

It was a long walk back with no bus to catch, but Phil and I got on so well that we never had nothing to say to each other, and we were home before we knew it. It was also very fun to throw rocks onto a frozen lake and listen to them bounce off emmitting a laser-gun like sound.

The following day I slept in. It was well deserved after all the time I have spent getting up early and walking around cities, etc. What happened that day was not a lot. But in the night Phil and I decided that we would do another night hike. So once again it was up the mountain for me. We got layered up in warm clothing, brandished head-lamps, and then set off along the forest trail. It seemed very different at night and we went much slower than I has previously gone with Doris. But soon we had made it as far as we thought we should go – this time we were not going to miss the last bus.

The view was very cool, and it was amazing how much orange from the city was reflected off of the clouds.

Orange City

The next morning it was time for me to head off, I had a lot of travelling ahead of me: A flight to Bodø, a night train to Trondheim, a day train to Oslo, one night in oslo, then a plane to Stockholm at 8am the next day, followed by a train to Borlänge where I was to stay with my childhood au pair, Marie.

Trondheim!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Norweige Adventuring!

On the 2nd I awoke at 6am. In half an hour I was ready and set off toward the central Oslo train station to catch the 8:05 to Trondheim.

The ride was long, the scenery beatuiful, the snow falling in the mountains, and some strange guy sitting across from me giving me odd looks. It soon was established that he didn’t have a ticket and was replaced by some young siblings who played cards and whispered to each other.

At around 4pm I arrived in Trondheim in the rain. Again I was CouchSurfing, this time with a French student named Florent. He had told me where he lived so I asked at the information centre as to which bus I had to catch; the attendent told me, I got on the bus, got off at the stop he’d mentioned and found myself in the wrong place. So I made me way to the local mini-mart where I asked the checkout girl if she knew where the street was, she didn’t. Luckily one of the customers knew and another offered to drive me (only after getting directions from the girl who knew the way!).

Florent was probably the easiest host to get along with that I have had thus far. He was an awesome dude and in spite of having heaps of work to do, managed to host CouchSurfers and hang out with them at the same time. We spent the evening hanging out in his flat and later on another guy, a Californian by the name of Skyler who was also staying with Florent, showed up. The direction of the night then changed and we, and a whole lot of other people from the building – all foreign students – headed into town to the Downtown night club.

This place was like a maze of party rooms. It was hard to tell with the numerous staircases heading off and twisting in all directions, but it is highly likely that the club had four or maybe five levels with five or six rooms showcasing different musical genres, none of which I was particularly fond off (except the sweet ’80s room).

Oh, and it was absolutely freezing.

The following day was a walking extravaganza. Skyler and I teamed up for a Trondheim expereince. First we headed into town and checked out their famous cathedral which reminded me a lot of some of the architecture which I saw in Belgium. We also saw the archbishop’s fortress which he used to hide away during war time and house his friends when they came to visit.

Crazy Cathedral!

Next on the list was Skyler’s wish to visit the fish market which turned out to be less of a market and more of the fresh fish shop which also sold fish related food like hot fishcakes. Our next stop was a cafe called Ramp which was supposed to be a venue for live music but currently had nothing on, possibley because it was far too cold! And after this we headed up to the fort (you need to visit the fort of each city you go to!).

Trondheim Fort

The view from it was pretty cool too!

View from Fort

After wandering around the fort for a while, we headed back to Florent’s place, had dinner, and had a quiet evening of drinking home made Serbian plum-brandy (which I now have the official receipe for) with some of the others living in the building, including some Germans, Americans, French, and of course a Serbian guy who had actually served in the Serbian army during the war with Kosovo! Something that he said he never wanted to ever have to repeat again. He also told me that I had to visit Serbia, and I was very interested – he even gave me a contact there – but sadly my rail-pass dosen’t include Serbia, so Belgrade will have to wait ’till another trip.

Day three was the day I had to leave but we still made the most of it. Although it was (again) raining, Florent, Skyler and I decided to make the hike to the local TV tower which also housed a restaurant.

TV Tower

As with most viewing towers, the view was pretty darned good!

View from TV Tower

Afterwards, we headed down to a place called UFFA which was known to be an anarchist hangout squat-type place, which Skyler had been to previously. Unfortunately it was not open but it looked like a pretty cool place to hang out.

UFFA

Finally, we headed back to Ramp in the rain, sat down, ate some awesome home-style fries, drank warm coffee and I learnt to play Speed (the card game) from which I whipped Skyler a few times over! After this it was time to head back to Florent’s so I could gather my things, head back into town, and board the night train to Bodø.

Hong Kong – Day One

I arrive in Hong Kong’s new airport (which I have just heard is sinking!) after an 11 hour flight from Auckland only to discover that at 10pm, the temperature is still a balmy 29 degrees. If I thought I was going to have to wait until I got to Scandinavia to experience a sauna, then I was wrong. On top of the torrid heat, the humidity must have been the closest to 100 that I had ever experienced… and this was only the beginning.

I was picked up at the airport by Dad’s friend George’s younger sister named Vanessa (and some man who I can only assume was her boyfriend or husband). After an interesting drive along the brightly lit Hong Kong motorway we finally reached Kowloon Peninsula and the neighbourhood of Tsim Sha Tsui where I was to be dropped at the Ramada Hotel. It was nice enough, and the cool air was incredibly refreshing after being outside – I think this is why everyone in Hong Kong is constantly shopping, to keep indoors and stay out of the heat! By the time I got to sleep it was almost 4a.m. NZ time and I was exhausted.

Hotel room view

I woke early to discover that the view from the hotel room was not the prettiest. But that was cool, I wasn’t there to stare out the windows naked. The first thing I did was to explore the local area. I was amazed at the sheer number of both neon signs and indian men chasing me down the street, trying to measure me up for a suit which I ‘could not travel without’.

The day was hot, in fact it was the hottest day that Hong Kong has recorded so far this year. Not only did two people die from heat exhaustion, but I couldn’t for the life of me figure out why it seemed to feel like it was raining. Then I discovered the source. Water all over the ground was puddling up as a result of the constant dripping of apartment air conditioners which were attached high upon the sides of buildings.

I decided it was time to get out of the heat, and after a short walk I found myself at the Hong Kong Museum of Art.

 

Hong Kong Museum of Art

I had found my refuge from the inferno outside and was glad to have a seat as well. All that walking (in jandals by the way) was beginning to put a strain on my precious feet. Along side an international exhibition there were galleries showing the history of Chinese calligraphy and also of the importance and evolution of the figure of the horse in Chinese art and culture. Unfortunately I did not not spend much more than 2 hours here as there was much more to be seen and I only had two days.

 

Hong Kong Island

 

My next stop was Hong Kong Island, and to get there I decided to ride the famous Star Ferry across from Kowloon.  After a ten minute sea voyage to rival only Fullers, we were docked at Hong Kong Island Central, Hong Kong’s playground for the rich shopoholic. Gucci, Prada, Louis Vuitton were all in direct eye view, along with hundred of other shops selling items which I could neither afford nor wanted. None the less, I decided to explore the area and was pleasantly surprised that these super-shops disappeared after a short walk up the hill. Behind this expensive shopping area was the complete opposite, an area full of rich-smelling restaurants and colourful street vendors selling everything from fruit and toys to key cutting and boot polishing services.

 

Street Vendors on Hong Kong Island

Following this hike amoungst the back hills of Hong Kong Central, I decided that I would venture into the subway. I was sweating like something that shouldn’t sweat, so lucky for me the subway stations were air conditioned. With quick decision on the mind, I bought a ticket to Wan Chai, a suburb only a few minutes down the line. May I say here that the Hong Kong subway is the most efficient and easiest public transport system I have ever used (not that I have used many). The main reason for this trip was to visit Golden Buahinia Square and after a short trip and a lot of walking by the means of following signs that did not exist, I was lost. Luckily for me, a woman who worked in property services for a large building was able to direct me in the right direction and in fifteen minutes I had found the square which was built to commemorate the handing over of Hong Kong from the British to the People’s Republic of China. There in the centre stood the Golden Buahinia, and behind it; two red flags, none of which I really took notice of. I think the heat was starting to get to me.

 

Golden Buahinia Square

I had killed enough time now, and it was about time for me to do what I had come to Hong Kong Island for in the first place – to ascend The Peak. The Peak sits high up in the hills behind the bustling city of Hong Kong Island. Home to a small number of serious mountain climbing enthusiasts, The Peak first gained public access in 1888 when some Scottsman by the name of which I can remember decided to run a tramline up to the, well, peak. I decided that there was no better way to experience life as it was than take this tram. The visitor information says that the incline is 27 degrees; it felt to be much more, reminding me of the initial climb of a roller coaster before it launches into madness. Unfortunately for the speed demon inside me, once the tram met the peak, it stopped and everyone got off.

 

The Peak Tram

The next step was to climb to the top of the observation deck. From here you could see what felt like the entirety of Hong Kong city. The view was amazing, and as night fell and I ate an expensive and poorly made Thai red curry, that amazing turned into spectatular – even if I had to purchase a second observation deck ticket.

 

Hong Kong from The Peak

 

Hong Kong from The Peak at Night

I had seen what I had set out for. Hong Kong from above both at day and at night. It was time to call it bedtime for me, and after a short walk to the Central station, followed by a swift subway ride, I was back in Tsim Sha Tsui. Then I was lost. Again. Nevertheless, after almost walking back to the ferry terminal I found my hotel. I was sunburnt, my jandals were as thin as paper and were killing my feet and I was tired as a sloth. The slumber calls.

P.S. If anyone is actually going to read this, don’t expect everything to be that long. I’ve just been killing a day relaxing after being awake an uncountable number of hours. In future I might just pull out the exciting stuff!